31.10.2014, 6.50 AM, cabin 431 of the ferry “New Camellia” from Busan to Hakata & 9.00-9.05 AM, Hakata bus terminal, Fukuoka

 Propably the most unexpected breakfast of the trip so far.

In the departure hall of Busan ferry terminal, a Japanese mother & son duo were sitting behind us, also waiting for the ferry to Fukuoka. The (adult) son was concentrated on his iPad, but the mother admired, over our shoulders, the animal figures printed on each page of the Finnish passport. So we ended up exchanging a few words.

Once on the ferry, it turned out that we shared a cabin with the duo (and an elderly Korean couple – a Korean 2nd class cabin has a tatami floor and 10 fold-away matresses). Once we had chosen our matresses and made ourselves at home, we all went our own ways. An hour had hardly passed – and the ferry was still in the harbour – when the mother of the Japanese duo found Elina wandering aimlessly along the corridors. She gently took her by the hand, and led to the lounge space in the ferry's bow, sat her down in the table where the son was already seated, and offered a can of Asahi. Few minutes later she appeared at the door of our cabin, where I was battling with the updated version of iTunes, which would not agree to recognize our iPods. “Beer?”, she asked, and waived invitingly at me. I couldn't find a trustworthy reason to refuse, so I set the laptop aside and followed her. Soon we all had cans of Asahi in front of us - “Kampai”, and we were tangled in a disjointed but merry conversation about this and that.

As if this generosity hadn't been enough, first thing in the morning, the lady offered us sweets with a sleepy bear on the label. This bear, Kumamon, was the mascot of Kumamoto prefecture quite in the middle of Kuyshu island, but had become a nationwide favourite. So, our first breakfast of the day consisted of

orange-flavoured Kumamon candy

Later the duo asked if we had any plans for breakfast, but we didn't really get what the question implied. We left the ferry together (they had already promised to drive us to the Hakata bus terminal), but at the border control we lost sight of them. Oh well, we thought, perhaps they indeed were a couple of good-will fairies who vanish after having fulfilled their mission, leaving behind a tinkling cloud of stardust and the smell of musk and pine trees. But once we got through the immigration formalities, there they were, flesh and blood, anticipating us on a bench in the arrivalshall. How they had escaped our eye, remains a mystery. But what's more, they had a bag of breakfast ready for us. It contained:


  • two dumplings of rice, tuna and mayonnaise, wrapped in seaweed paper
  • green tea
Perplexed (and grateful!) we took the bag, and got in the car. On the way we still stopped by a buddhist temple in central Fukuoka. It included aso a huge wooden buddha statue (impressive, not photographable), and some kind of installation of heaven and hell that we were too early to visit. Finally the duo brought us to the bus terminal, where we warmly greeted them farewell, and went inside to eat our breakfast.


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