7.45-8.05 AM, on the porch of K77 guest house, Medan



Arriving to a new city is strenuous business, not least so in the wee hours after an overnight bus ride, and not least because of the pushy and persistent taxi and moto-riksha drivers that swarm you like mosquitoes as soon as you step out of the convey. That I managed to get hold of my smartphone in Thailand, and that it's possible to download maps to the device, has helped a little (where tourists are involved, the taxi drivers' business is largely based on the fact that the newcomers don't know where they are or how far it is they're going to), but in Medan it happened that the road we had to walk along was dotted with riksha stands, so no matter how far from the bus station we came, there was no escape from the “Hellooomisteeer! Where you go?” howls; and as we were already severely struggling with fatigue – and carrying all our belongings – we chose to do business with the least aggressive of the drivers we met (and actually, expecting another lenghty haggling about the price, we were quite surprised that his first offer was slightly less than what we had been told the price should be – we must've been misinformed).

At the guest house, there was a slight unclarity about when we would be able to check in to our room, so we unmounted our backpacks on the porch and sat down to wait. Not a minute passed until an aquarium of the size of a suitcase, filled with buns, donuts and pastries of all kinds, appeared in front of us, as if floating by above the fence of the yard. As it reached the open gate, it turned out to be the top shelf of a vitrine, mounted on the sidewagon of a bicycle, the pastry boy pedaling away, ringing his bell. I instantly rushed after him, but apparently chose the wrong words (“excuse me!”) to gain his attention, as he just kept on going and it took a few attentive passers-by to make him notice the eager customer. I ordered

  • two buns with some sweet pistacchio-green filling (wasn't made of pistacchios, though)

and was offered

  • a croissant-shaped bun.

The price he told me was five hundred, so I handed him a thousand rupee note, but he rejected it, looking perplexed, and repeatedly waiving five fingers in the air in front of me. What followed was a moment of mutual confusion, the bystanders providing little help in waiving the same five fingers. The lady from our guest house was quickly called in (as she was known to speak some English), but just before she made it there, I realized the what the problem was: a mix-up between hundreds and thousands. I handed the pastry boy a 5000 rupee note, and he smiled, acceptingly. I could not help myself to clarify to him, painstakingly, the difference between a 'hundred' and a 'thousand'. Whether it was a lesson learned, I have no idea. Of course I could have, and should have, done the maths myself, too: 500 rupees is about 0,03 Euro, which hardly is enough for three buns, even in Indonesia...

With the tasty buns, we had leftovers from our bus ride snacks:

  • Minute Maid juice
  • chocolate cookies




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