8.30-9.30 AM, Starbucks, Sumitomo Building, Shinjuku, Tokyo

We had agreed to meet at Shinjuku station in Tokyo in the morning of December 2nd. But Shinjuku station only happens to be the busiest train station in the world, so how to find each other? Luckily both of us were coming there by Willer Express bus, and in both our reservations the destination was marked as “Shinjuku West Exit”. So that's where we would meet.

Elina: My bus from Okayama arrived to Tokyo on time, 6:30 AM. I got out from the bus at Shinjuku West Exit station, expecting to see Mikko waiting for me at the bus stop. But I saw nobody, anywhere. The whole area in front of the bus terminal was totally empty, and it was freezingly windy. I thought Mikko might have been impatient with his breakfast and would have lost track of time while sipping his morning coffee somewhere nearby, so I went in to the terminal and began to wait. After waiting for an hour I got a bit worried and decided I should try to get in contact with Mikko somehow. I had a laptop but no wifi and a mobile phone but no coverage, I knew Mikko had no laptop but a mobile phone, possibly with coverage. I consulted the terminal staff and one of them left with me outside to look for a phone booth (yes, they still do exist in Japan). We found one and I tried to call Mikko but the line was busy. I got slightly more worried. We get almost no calls during our trip, so why would the line be busy? I went back to the terminal and asked if I can use one of the computers there. I prepared to search information about bus accidents in Japan last night, but decided to write a Facebook message to Mikko first. I had just sent the message when Mikko entered the terminal looking relieved and angry at the same time.

Mikko: I arrived to Tokyo from Nagoya at 5:05 AM. Exactly as planned, I got off the bus at Shinjuku West Exit bus stop. It was still dark, but I tried my best to memorize the whereabouts of the bus stop, as I would be meeting Elina there in just shy of 1,5 hours. Confident that I would find it again, I went in to Shinjuku station building – it was freezing so I couldn't see a reason to stay waiting on the spot. I found myself an uncomfortable yet warm spot on the station alleys, where I squatted, read two short stories from a compilation, and involuntarily listened to a brain-drilling department store muzak loop, which undoubtedly will find it's way to my dreams still when I'm 68. As I'd finished a short story by Edgar Allan Poe, it was already 6:15, so I gathered my stuff and started walking back to the bus stop. I was there in no-time, to see a whole bunch of pink-roofed Willer buses align in a row and unload their passengers. But no Elina among them. Ok, I was a bit early, and the bus might be late. I waited for 15 minutes; more Willer buses arrived and left. I waited until 7 AM – no Elina. A quarter past 7 I started feeling desperate: in what way could I contact her? I didn't have a device to get online, and Elina's phone didn't work in Japan. Worried, annoyed and tired, I was able to make one good decision: I returned to the station, left my backpack in a locker, and thought about my next move with a lighter load. I remembered that while making the Willer Express reservation, I could choose whether to get off at Shinjuku West Exit or the Willer Bus terminal, which should also reside somewhere in Shinjuku. Perhaps Elina had slept past her stop, and would have been taken to the terminal? But how to find the terminal? I hurried haphazardly around the vast Shinjuku station, making my best of the confusing mess of signs. A “highway bus terminal” was signposted, and after a few frustrating dead ends, I found myself in front of it. I rushed in, and asked the first official-looking person about the Willer Express terminal. By chance, she happened to speak English, and clarified that this was the terminal for the “official” buses, while Willer terminal would be found at the Sumitomo building, about a kilometre away. She gave me a map, and I greeted and ran out. The sun was already up, so finding the unique-shaped Sumitomo building was easy, but for the terminal inside it I had to bother a few employees (who would ask their colleagues, who would ask their colleagues etc.). Ultimately I got correct instructions, and bewildered in a mixture of anxiety, frustration, a bad night's sleep, hunger and relief, rushed up an escalator, to see Elina behind a glass wall, sitting in front of a computer, writing me a Facebook message.

So, what had happened? Elina had not slept over her stop, the terminal was her bus' only stop in Tokyo. Mikko had also found his way to the right stop, but apparently a crucial difference between a stop and a station had gone unnoticed by us. For Elina's bus, Shinjuku West Exit stood for the bus terminal; for Mikko's, the bus stop. Who would have known?


Having calmed down, we left to enjoy our first breakfast together in more than a week. The easiest option was Starbucks in the same building, and the breakfast consisted of:


  • 2 spinach-cheese wraps
  • 1 blueberry scone
  • 1 soy latte
  • 1 caffe mocha

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