10.50-11.30 AM; on the porch of our room, Hideaway Guesthouse, Funafuti

• toasted bread with peanut butter and raspberry jam
• oranges
• tea

When we visited the Hideaway Guesthouse for the first time, we optimistically aimed to walk there from downtown. After a few kilometres the strap of Mikko's sandal snapped – it had shown elements of wear for a long time – causing him to either walk rest of the way barefoot, or limp. We must have seemed desperate, and soon enough a lorry driver offered us a ride. His name was Sai, and instead of just taking us to our destination, he first drove us to the northern tip of the island (which serves as the dump), showed his house and invited us to come and say hello whenever it would suit us – he would serve us coconuts.

Today we thought to pay a visit, and walked the way up north. We found Sai and a bunch of his friends sitting in the shade of some bushes on a narrow hump of land between the road and the rocky beach, sipping wine. We were not in the mood for wine (we were going snorkeling afterwards) so Sai rushed off to bring us some coconuts – sometimes they hang low, he said, you only have to reach up and pick.